When people are looking historic towns to visit in Wales, they automatically think of places like Caernarfon and Conwy with their imposing castles in North Wales, or the picturesque towns of Chepstow and Monmouth in South Wales. But I’m going to let you in on a secret – I think the best historic towns are to be found in Mid Wales.
The rural nature of Mid Wales makes time seem to move slower. Change did not always reach this beautifully remote part of the world. This means when you visit Mid Wales now you can open doors to churches and chapels and feel like you are stepping into the past. Even a simple wander through a small market town will unveil hidden history – some of which literally changed the world!
Mid Wales is a popular place to visit in Wales. People are drawn to the area by its outstanding landscapes, but there are also many historic market towns where you can easily spend a whole day exploring. Here’s the top eight historic towns you should visit in Mid Wales;
Aberystwyth
Situated in the heart of Wales and Cardigan Bay, this University town is full of many historical landmarks, several dating from its Victorian heyday.
I would recommend starting your visit at the top of town (quite literally, Penglais Hill is quite a climb!) at the National Library of Wales (one of the places you REALLY need to tick off your list if you want to learn more about Welsh history). It is one of only five copyright libraries in Britain, and home to Welsh treasures such as the earliest surviving scripts of the Mabinogion and the Black Book of Carmarthen, the first written book in Welsh.
When you head down into town, there are many historical attractions to take your fancy – Aberystwyth Castle, built by Edward I and the site of a Royalist mint during the English Civil War; or The Old College (Yr Hen Goleg to the locals), the former grand Victorian Gothic hotel turned the first University College in Wales.
There’s the obligatory Victorian pier and promenade, but I also highly recommend paying a visit to the county museum housed in the town’s former theatre which pays host to some great exhibitions which you would not expect to find in a rural corner of the world (and its free!).
Top Tip: The Georgian mansion of Nanteos is THE place to stay in town if you like both your history AND your luxury. One word of warning though, this high-class hotel is reputedly haunted!
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Machynlleth
The ancient capital of Wales, Machynlleth was the site of the last Welsh parliament held by Owain Glyndwr before the advent of Welsh devolution in 1997. Parliament House in Machynlleth now occupies the site of the original parliament – however, it was probably erected just after the time of Glyndwr but it is still one of the oldest halls in Wales. It is worth a visit as it houses a wonderful museum and information centre, explaining Owain Glyndwr’s life, his ties to Machynlleth, and his legacy.
Machynlleth is one another one of those historic towns in Mid Wales where just a simple stroll around will reward you with the sight of many historical building’s along the town’s colourful streets. Of particular note is Plas Machynlleth, a Victorian mansion and former home of the Marquess of Londonderry.
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Brecon
Aaah, I have spent many an hour wandering around the pretty cathedral town of Brecon! In fact, the medieval cathedral should be your first stop. Take your time to discover its many treasures – including an elaborate Norman font and the biggest cresset stone in Britain. You can also pay your respects to the men of the South Wales Borderers who lost their lives in the Zulu War of 1879 in their Regimental Chapel.
You can also follow the South Wales Borderers to The Royal Welsh Regimental Museum at the barracks in town. Its a fab little museum, but the highlight here is really the Zulu War Room. The exploits of the 24th Foot Regiment during the 1879 Anglo-Zulu War were dramatised in the 1964 film Zulu and shows how soldiers won 11 Victoria Crosses at the famous conflict of Rourke’s Drift – the largest number of Victorian Crosses ever awarded to a single regiment for one action.
Another museum you should see if in town is Y Gaer, named after the large Roman fort to the west of the town.
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Newtown
Newtown may not immediately strike you as a historic town – but dig deeper and there is a wealth of truly significant history to explore!
Newtown was first established in the 13th Century, but came to prominence during the Industrial Revolution. South Wales had coal, North Wales had slate, and Mid Wales had the flannel industry! You can visit the Textile Museum housed in old worker’s cottages to learn more about this trade.
There are other quirky little museums to explore in the town. One such hidden gem is the WH Smith museum. Another museum is devoted to one of Newtown’s most famous sons, Robert Owen – the Welsh textile manufacturer, philanthropist and social reformer, and a founder of utopian socialism and the cooperative movement. You can visit both the Robert Owen Memorial Museum on Broad Street and his grave, just 5 minute’s walk away in the churchyard of Old St Mary’s Church.
The other famous son of Newtown is Pryce Pryce-Jones, a Welsh entrepreneur who formed the first ever mail order business, revolutionising how products were sold. He is also credited with the invention of the first ever sleeping bag, which he patented in 1876 under the name of the Euklisia Rug. You can admire the Royal Welsh Warehouse where he stocked his goods before shipping them out by railway via the station just across the road.
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Montgomery
While many visitors will opt for nearby Welshpool and the impressive Powis Castle, I recommend visiting Montgomery if you want a full day of historic adventures.
Montgomery – named after a Marcher Lord – is the smallest county town in England and Wales. It is also home to 13th century Montgomery Castle and the medieval parish church of St Nicholas, which has some great memorials if you are into church crawling like I am. If you like your local history, then check out the quirky Old Bell Museum which contains eleven rooms house displays illustrating the long social and civic history of the ancient County Town of Montgomeryshire.
If you like your spooky history, then you simply must check out the churchyard where you will find the infamous Robbers Grave. The Robbers Grave is a cursed place where no grass is said to grow. A plasterer from Wrexham was falsely accused by a local man of robbery, and was sentenced to death. At the execution the plasterer declared his innocence and said that the grass would not grow on his grave for a hundred years as a sign he was not guilty.
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Llandrindod Wells
The quintessential Victorian spa town, in Llandrindod Wells you can still make like a Victorian lady fo weak constitution and take the sulpher and magnesium waters at the spa room.
In my opinion, here are no ‘stand out’ heritage attractions to visit the town, but amongst the extensive Victorian architecture there are lots of little historic gems to discover. I have a soft spot for the Radnorshire Museum, housed in a former Carnegie library (my favourite exhibit is the rare Sheela-na-gig carving). Another museum you have to see is the National Cycle Collection, housed in the town’s landmark building, the Art Deco Automobile Palace. It was built by Tom Norton, who sold the first Model T Ford in Wales and also introduced Wales’ first bus service that ran from Llandrindod Wells to Newtown.
P.S. If you’re visiting this neck of the wood and have time, I thoroughly recommend checking out the historic sites associated with Llywelyn The Last, the last native born Prince of Wales
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Presteigne
This pretty border town literally straddles the England-Wales border, and can be forgotten about due to its location. But it is well worth a visit.
The historical jewel in the crown that is Presteigne is the Judges Lodging. Formerly the Shire Hall where both the Assizes and Quarter Sessions were held, it is now an award-winning museum. It has been restored to look like how it would have been in the 1870s.
There are also several notable historic buildings in town, including some eye catching Arts and Crafts structures and The Radnorshire Arms, which was once owned by Sir Christopher Hatton, one of Elizabeth I’s courtiers. Make sure you visit St Andrew’s Church too – it contains a true treasure – a 16th Century Flemish tapestry, one of only two pre-reformation tapestries to be found in a church in Britain.
You can learn more about this border town in this post from the archives.
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Rhayader
Now, I have to admit I am slightly biased when it comes to this market town which you can find slap bang in the middle of a map of Wales. Rhayader is my home town. It has such a long and interesting history perhaps it was inevitable I would fall in love with history myself?
Said to be the oldest town in Mid Wales, Rhayader has long been a natural stopping point for travellers in the heart of Wales. The hills around abound with prehistoric and Roman history. There is a great town trail which will lead you round the various historic buildings in town, including the remains of the castle. There is also a great little museum (of really good quality considering the size of the town) and make sure you also include a trip just out of town to Elan Valley, the largest construction period of the Victorian era.
Top Tip: If you like your food or drink with a side order of history, then I recommend checking out The 16th century drovers pub The Triangle Inn in Cwmdauddwr.
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These are just the principal historic towns to be found in Mid Wales – but there are many, many more just waiting to be discovered, such as the famous literary town of Hay-On-Wye and its imposing castle? Why not plan a break to beautiful Mid Wales today?
Looking for more historical towns in Wales to explore? Then check out this post about my favourite historical towns in North Wales.
